Good morning. How are you? Fine, thank you.
Cameroon is a
bilingual country. Supposedly. Rumor is Paul Biya (the president since
forever) added that Cameroonians, themselves, are not bilingual when asked
about his own lack of English. They
teach some English pretty much everywhere, though it seems to never get beyond
the introductive stuff. I probably
shouldn't talk much since I technically have a degree saying I speak Italian
and the only thing left of that is a large amount of profanity. All the same, I have only ever seem to have
one conversation in English:
"Good
morning."
"How are
you?"
"Fine, thank
you."
You cannot deviate
from the script. If I just say
"morning", I've broken the rule and get to watch poor children's
minds snap. That probably says more
about their lack of creativity than poor English skills, but it is
painful. (As to creativity, hand any kid
crayons and tell them "Draw whatever you want!" and they will give
you the Cameroonian flag. It's
patriotism bordering on fascism.)
The Cameroonians
that do speak English, speak what we might call Special English. It is sort of a lowest common denominator
version. It is probably more about
speaking slowly and clearly, but I hate it and can't bring myself to use
it. It is to the point that I'll switch
to French even in an Anglophone area (that's right, I make people deal with my
bad French rather than deal with their bad English; I'm a dick). Occasionally Peace Corps Volunteers will drop
into this Special English out of habit and I'm forced to hold back smacking
them. Honestly it sounds like how you'd
speak to a child. Or someone you are
patronizing, hence the desire to smack.
I bring all this up
because I ran into the weirdest guy today.
In the same way that I ignore people calling me "Le Blanc" or
"Nasaara", I sort of just respond with the "How are you?"
or "Goodmorning" and keep walking to the English routine (if you
don't say my name, I don't stop). This
guy gave me a "What's up?" and a "Cool." I can't recall hearing that even in
English-speaking areas; in Mbakaou it was world-shattering. He spoke English as if he had been to
America. Not even that silly Brit
version of the language you occasionally run into! Apparently he learned in Nigeria "from
the streets". I'm not super
convinced he understood all of my own English, but I was still impressed. The only weird part was that he sounded like
he was a decade or two behind. I felt
like I was watching some film from my childhood. Kept thinking of Marty McFly. Still, even watching Cameroonian news in
English isn't as easy as talking to my new friend, Marty. It was heavy.
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